Below is a personal account of my experiences in Udupi.
15th April 2011
15th April 2011
After some sleep-deprived confusion, we find our way to the Yakshagana Kendra - where everyone is already awake.
We are greeted by Javoor – appears to be the Kendra’s caretaker but is actually, as we later discover, a dancer himself. He welcomes us into a green garden, which is flanked by the school on three sides. The building is three stories high - grey concrete and red sandstone, the iron gates are decorated by delicate dancers, and there are two dogs; Sultan and another one who was, for all intents and purposes, nameless.
The entrance is through a stage, but apart from that it looks like any other school. Oh, except that it smells of boys - many, many boys. Yakshagana is, after all, a male dominated art-form.
We are taken upstairs – through a wide stairwell typical of schools – and given a pristinely white, clean room. They gather we are quiet sleepy and inform us that breakfast is at 8 and we should take rest till then. And boy, do I try. After a long bumpy journey, I welcomed a little quiet and some solid ground. But it isn’t meant to be. The sound of laughter, that seems to weigh a ton, slams down the hall, slips under the door and bowls us over. It takes us a while to realise that this is some kind of vocal practice. It stops soon enough, but I am now restless.
I feel like I’ve experienced a ghostly glimpse of the days to come.
I turn. Aparna is already asleep.
The Yakshagana Kendra is - as the name suggests - a school for students of the dance-form; it functions, as they say, under the gurukool system. I'm not sure exactly what that means but from what I understand, they take in 10-15 full-time trainees every year. These boys will probably become professional, full-time dancers – they go to regular school (a recent development) but study dance before and after. The Kendra also runs small courses in the summer, to prevent kids in the area from – in their own words - 'troubleshooting at home'.
The Kendra itself is populated by full-time students, teachers, bhagavats (singers, if you remember), and their children. It is an extremely family oriented space - children usually grow up around Yakshagana, and are fairly proficient by the end of their adolescence.
"It's in their blood," apparently. This is explained to me by Prof. Bhat at around 10 o clock the same morning. He tells me that he would have met me earlier but today is Ugadi, according to the solar calendar - incidentally, the same day as Baisakhi.
Our conversation takes place during the practice for the next day’s performance – a performance by the students of the summer school...
Students are from nearby and cover all age groups – though not gender. Prof. Bhat tells me that girls are slowly joining Yakshagana tradition. According to him, women were excluded from dance troupes as the routine was too tiresome - traditionally, dancers would walk from one performance to the next - they would leave their families to go on tour for months on end. Often, this distance would span a hundred miles. Of course, this is no longer a problem. In fact, I'm supposed to attend a girl's practice session in the evening.
"Your gender", as I am told.
The performance practice continues in front of us – none of the students are distracted by our conversation. They run through the performance, as if they were doing so on stage – looking at a ghost audience in the garden. The dance teacher – who looks a bit like Dronacharya - stands on the side of the stage correcting them as and when they go wrong...which, to his credit, isn’t too often.
My first thought is that the form is loud. Loud. Loud. Loud. The narrator’s voice is large and all-consuming – I felt it almost like a weight. Characters leap in and out of frame, whirling like dervishes, spinning in and out of emotion. Loud.
Though I don’t know Kannada, it is not difficult to spot characters at all. As characters reveal themselves to me, so does the story. I realise that this is a version of the Ekalavya myth where Dronacharya lives in regret of what he has done. It is not an easy story for children to portray, but Dronacharya’s regret – I suppose – softens the edge a bit. I am struck by how regret can absolve us of so much – and what an important role it plays in neatly tying up a narrative.
I notice that they did not demonise the Kaurava children either. A lot of texts and plays make the Kaurava children humourless, or make their brand of humour deplorable. In this version though, they make jokes and have an irreverent 'child-like' quality about them. It’s refreshing.
The performance ends. Everyone dissipates for lunch. Avoiding the mountains of rice sure to be headed our way, we go out to town.
Later on, we return to the Kendra to find four girls sitting around the stage. We exchange awkward smiles, and hurry on to find Javoor. He tells me that the dance teacher will not be taking class today, as a relative of his passed away. I go back to the stage, where the girls are still sitting.
There seems to be some confusion amongst them - one of them has some information that that he might come at some point. They talk amongst each other, and eventually I muster up the courage to ask them a few questions. This I feel, is the biggest lesson to learn i.e. to be unafraid to talk to people.
We learn that on Monday - the day after we are scheduled to leave - they are performing an episode from the Ramayana. It is an all-woman performance - in fact, one of the women I spoke to is playing Raavan! In contrast to what Professor Bhat said earlier in the morning, they say that Yakshagana has been the domain of men because that is how culture is. However, now it is different – but perhaps very much still the same. While women have begun to learn, there are no professional female troupes. Most women dance in an amateur capacity. Interestingly, there is one known female bhagvata - but she does not perform professionally either. (Someone by the name of Lilavati, from Dakshin Kanara)
I have a fairly casual conversation with them on form....
I have a fairly casual conversation with them on form....
Vallari - who also learns Bharatanatyam - says that while Bharatanatyam and Yakshagana are formed on the same principles (those in the Natya Shastra), Yakshagana is more relaxed - the mudras are not so tight. Bharatanatyam, according to her, was a little artificial. She also says that in Yakshagana you can really feel the character. She isn’t too well versed with the colour symbology - but she does run me through a couple of mudras. They are essentially the same as in Bharatanatyam - which means, I need to study the Natya Shastra. The mudras are all displayed on yellowing paper on the wall that close three sides of the stage. Each is shown with writing in Kannada (I assume) which describes what it means - a thunderstorm or a forest; a deer, or a bird; the moon, or the sun...
Tomorrow we leave for Shimoga at 6 in the morning.
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The images in this post are taken and owned by me (Vidyun Sabhaney).
Entry named after song by Buckingham Nicks.
Here's hoping it doesn't take me three weeks to write the next entry. Feedback appreciated.
Here's hoping it doesn't take me three weeks to write the next entry. Feedback appreciated.





